33 Club

Restaurateur Jerry Kleiner (Gioco, Carnivale, Marche, Opera and others) always names his new restaurants at the 11th hour, usually after the chef, menu, tables, light fixtures and framed photos are already in place, and the hostess is ready to start taking names. I got a sneak peek at his latest venture last night, 33 Club, located on Wells Street in the heart of Old Town. I’m not sure Kleiner’s ever opened up anything this north before, but the location rocks and the huge supperclub-style space and well-priced menu by chef Daniel Kelly will do great in that neighborhood. Classic American fare takes over the menu (braised veal ragoût; $22, Matidore steak sandwich; $12 and broiled Lake Superior Whitefish filet; $18) but I’m most excited about the $3 bar snacks we tried like deviled eggs and bacon popcorn, and an intriguing sounding dish called the whitefish hoagie. There’s also an especially tasty dish I believe was once a standout at D. Kelly (Daniel Kelly’s first restaurant on Randolph Street); Maine lobster stuffed natural chicken breast. They’re shooting to officially open next week, so call before you head in, and expect a wait. 33 Club, 1419 N. Wells St., 312.644.1419