Category Archives: eliz-a-trip

tales of my travels

Chilean eats

Packaged, bottled, pisco-ified, or plucked from a tree, we ate and drank well, and I’ve decided to close out Chile week with a few of our favorite noshes. We saw lots of seafood and ceviche, steak and fresh veggies on the menu, all kicked off with housemade bread served with butter and salsas. Here are just a few highlights, including tasty traditional eats like humitas and empanadas. Check the blog later this afternoon when a random photo Friday post will feature a few non-food-related shots I took. Next week, we’re back to cold (but still delicious) Chicago.

I hate olives, but these looked freaking ridiculous

I hate olives, but these looked freaking ridiculous

A typical appetizer plate of cheeses, meats and nuts, Kuchen Haus, Santiago

A typical appetizer plate of cheeses, meats and nuts, Kuchen Haus, Santiago

Shellfish with melted Parmesan, Kuchen Haus, Chile

Shellfish with melted Parmesan, Kuchen Haus, Chile

Another fried seafood appetizer platter with dipping sauces

Another fried seafood appetizer platter

Traditional humitas, similar to a tamale and made with fresh corn, onion, basil and butter and served here with sauteed shrimp; Chef Pilar Rodriguez, Santiago

Traditional humitas, similar to a tamale and made with fresh corn, onion, basil and butter and served here with sauteed shrimp; Chef Pilar Rodriguez, Santiago

Lucuma (similar to fig) and carica floating island with berries, Chef Pilar Rodriguez, Santiago

Lucuma (similar to fig) and carica floating island with berries, Chef Pilar Rodriguez, Santiago


A serious empanada, meat, eggs, potatoes, delicious

A serious empanada, meat, eggs, potatoes, delicious

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Chilean wine

So after whetting our palates with Pisco, we’d switch to fantastic South American wines. I knew about deep, red Malbecs from Argentina, but had never tried Chilean Carménère, an intriguing grape variety originally grown in Bordeaux, France, and once considered one of the original six grapes of Bordeaux. In the 1800s, the varietal was nearly wiped out from phylloxera infestation, and was imported to Chile’s central valley where it continues to grow strong. A part of the Cabernet family, it was misclassified as a Merlot until 1994 with its deep red color and bold and spicy-earthy flavor that stands up perfectly to ulmo honey and orange caramelized pork ribs. It became my new favorite wine, next to a refreshing Malbec rosé that was totally conducive to the 80-degree temps I really miss right about now.

Carmenere

Concha y Toro, Terrunyo Carménère 2006

Malbec rosé

Malbec rosé at Viu Mament Winery

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Chilean goodies

One of my favorite things to do in foreign countries (or anywhere in the US for that matter) is to peruse the truck stops, grocery stores and markets for interesting local packaged goods you won’t find at home. We hit up all three during the week, and discovered some pretty interesting eats, from intense miel du ulmo honey made from the bees that pollinate an evergreen native to the Chilean rain forests to Serrano ham potato chips from Lay’s “Mediterraneas” collection. The dusting of rust-hued powder immediately kicked in our Pavlovian response to BBQ potato chips, but the actual ham flavor convinced our taste buds otherwise. The oregano chips were good, but we couldn’t shake our sour cream and onion instincts. Either way, we polished off both bags and then moved onto some paper-thin lemon cookies one of my travel companions picked up at a random art gallery in Valparaíso, spiced things up with merquen dried chile powder, sweetened things up with dried blueberries and cherries and finished it all off with some Big Time gum…loved the name, font and flavor, which sort of reminded me of Gator Gum..yum!

Miel de ulmo honey

Miel de ulmo honey

Local chips

Local chips

Addictive lemon wafer cookies courtesy of Stacey

Addictive lemon wafer cookies courtesy of Stacey

Dried fruit

Dried fruit

Merquen spice

Merquen spice

I was wondering what this was, I mean besides cute

Besides cute, I'm still not sure what these were

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We're on our way, we're making it..

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Chilean fruit

So, we didn’t only down stiff Pisco Sours on the trip, thanks to the Chilean Fresh Fruit Association, we were lucky enough to tour the fresh fruit orchards and vineyards of Chile. Most were 1-2 hours from Santiago by bus, surrounded by lush green hills, a back drop of the Andes and a constant stream of warm sunlight. We were able to see everything from where the fruits are grown, packed and then eventually shipped from the port city of Valparaiso. It was a fascinating look at how fresh Chilean fruit including blueberries, avocados, table grapes, apples and pears make it to the grocery store looking lovely, even in the dead of winter.

Red table grapes, Copiapo Valley, Chile

Red table grapes, Copiapo Valley, Chile


Red table grapes, Copiapo Valley, Chile

Red table grapes, Copiapo Valley, Chile


Green table grapes, Copiapo Valley

Green table grapes, Copiapo Valley


Organic apple orchard, Placilla, Chile

Organic apple orchard, Placilla, Chile


Handmade birdhouses are a haven for insect-eating birds in the organic orchards

Handmade birdhouses are a haven for insect-eating birds in the organic orchards


Blueberry orchard, Lampa, Chile

Blueberry orchard, Lampa, Chile


Blueberries ready for shipping, Vitalberry, Lampa, Chile

Blueberries ready for shipping, Vitalberry, Lampa, Chile


Pears being sorted, Placilla, Chile

Pears being sorted, Placilla, Chile


Sauvignon Blanc Grapes, Manent Vue Winery

Sauvignon Blanc Grapes, Viu Mament Winery


Vineyards, Viu Mament Winery, Chile

Vineyards, Viu Mament, Chile


Colorful crates stacked up at Greenvic Organic Orchards, Placilla, Chile

Colorful crates stacked up at Greenvic Organic Orchards, Placilla, Chile


Vessels being loaded up in Valparaiso, the main port for exporting Chilean fruit

Valparaiso, the main port for exporting Chilean fruit

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Pisco Sour

Well, I never managed to finish one, but I tried three different Pisco Sours in Chile, two in Santiago and one in the historic seaport city of Valparaíso. Stateside, I’ve tried the refreshing local version served at the Violet Hour and at The Slanted Door in San Francisco. But the ones in Chile, where the drink supposedly originated (Peru also hotly stakes its claim on the cocktail), were stronger and more flavorful with frothier egg whites, fresh fruit juice and tart Pisco liquor (a South American liquor made from grapes). I tried the traditional Chilean version (Pisco, lemon or lime juice, simple syrup and bitters), which was very similiar to the one I sipped at The Slanted Door, but much stronger. The Peruvian-style Pisco was even better, with more limejuice than lemon, less egg white froth and just one small dash of bitters. But my favorite didn’t seem to have any egg whites or bitters, but was spiked with green chiles that lent a bit of heat to cut the acid and sweetness. I also loved the glassware, which was either a narrow glass goblet or Champagne flute, and each restaurant has a Pisco Sour menu with variations featuring fruit or ginger. They serve them everywhere, even in the airport and they kicked off pretty much every meal we had.

Traditional pisco sour at La Cocina de Javier, Santiago, Chile

Traditional pisco sour from La Cocina de Javier, Santiago, Chile


A Peruvian pisco sour at Cinefuegos, Santiago, Chile

A Peruvian pisco sour at Cinefuegos, Santiago, Chile


Pisco sour with green chiles at Cafe Turri, Valparaiso, Chile

Pisco sour with green chiles at Cafe Turri, Valparaíso, Chile

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Chile week

Lemme tell you, it wasn’t easy to leave 85-degree temps for the Chicago tundra that awaited, but I returned from my week long visit to Chile over the weekend. I have lots to report, from the green chile-spiked Pisco Sours to my visits to organic apple orchards, blueberry fields, vineyards and more. We ate awesome seafood, steak and empanadas, drank Chilean wines including Carmenère, and tried local delicacies like miel de ulmo honey, lucuma fruit jam and Serrano ham potato chips! I’ll be posting stories and pics from my visit all week, finishing up on Friday with some of my favorite non-food related photos I captured in and around Santiago as well as the historic port city of Valparaiso and more. Enjoy.

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Chile bound

Elizabites is on the move again, this time to South America. I’m heading there for work this week, and will be exploring everything from the avocado orchards to the vineyards. Needless to say, I am more than just pretty psyched. There won’t be much posting, but check back for updates if I can swing ’em. If not, regular blogging and trip coverage will return in about a week!

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Jake’s Deli

img_4706A good corned beef sandwich is hard to find, so I had to check out Jake’s Deli in Milwaukee when a foodie tipster told me about the place. First off, I love the history of the deli, which has been in the same location on North Avenue and 17th Street since the 1930s. It’s just as no-frills as it was when it first opened, complete with wooden booths (with defunct buzzers once used to summon servers), a great neon sign, a Berkel bread slicer, and a slew of guys behind the counter seasoning corned beef with paprika before hand-slicing it to order for each sandwich (which is the secret to killer corned beef). The house matzo ball soup is fantastic and the corned beef is super-tender, buttery and moist, with the paprika adding just the right kick. Fresh-sliced bread from Milwaukee-based Miller bakery is perfectly soft and doesn’t get soggy from the meat and spicy mustard. It took a good 20 minutes to place our order, as the place stays busy from open to close, complete with a line before they open around 10AM, but it’s worth the drive up from Chicago for a slice of Brewtown history, a damn good corned beef sandwich and did I mention the true sign of a great deli? House-made pickles. 1634 W. North Ave., 414.562.1272

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The neon sign above the bustling deli counter


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Extra-lean corned beef on rye

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