Mad for Mado

Cocoa bean panna cotta with a crushed Whoppers-esque garnish (photo by TK)

I love me some Las Palmas, but I have very little love for the Bucktown Mexican restaurant when I walk in at 9:30PM after a party on Wednesday night and they’ve stopped serving dinner. Que pasa con that? Anyway, it was actually all meant to be as my hunger situation forced me to try Mado up the street. I was pretty much starving by the time the Lake Superior whitefish with cucumber and chili oil and the creamy polenta arrived at our table, but I would’ve displayed some serious scarf-action anyway. The smell from the wood-oven (there’s also a rotisserie and a wood-grill!) fills the place, but not so much that you smell of wood chipper when you leave. Mado uses it for their chicken with charred onion panzanella, lamb leg and said whitefish. We didn’t think it could get better until we got to dessert, which includes the best shortbread I’ve ever had, cocoa bean panna cotta, cheese and fresh fruit tarts. Run by husband and wife team Robert and Allison Levitt, the menu at Mado (written on a chalkboard along with local farms they frequent) changes daily with what’s in season. I still love the Palm, but I’ll be back to Mado for antipasti, meats, and the wood-grilled hanger steak. 1647 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773.342.2340