Big Star

Interior at Big Star

Ah, Pontiac. I remember my sandals sticking to your floors, and vying for a seat on your sun-soaked patio filled with condensation-speckled Coronas, Converse tennis shoes resting leisurely up on rickety metal tables, and lots and lots of cute dogs. You were in a former garage and it felt that way; gritty, loud, dark. Then you shuttered and the neighborhood wept. But, our sadness was soon eclipsed by anticipation when we heard a taqueria was on the way, and chef Paul Kahan was behind it. So, of course I couldn’t wait to finally get into the place, not only to fulfill my craving for mini tacos, but to see what the hell they did to it. I noticed the lights first. I am sucker for both year-round Christmas lights and single white light bulbs, and Big Star has both. They dark walls of Pontiac have turned winter white (but even with the lights, it’s still pretty dark), and bar has shifted from the north side to the center of the room, pretty much dominating the space. And, well the seating. I had heard about the seating, aka: not a whole lot if you’re in a party of two (the 4 large wooden banquettes are reserved for parties of 4 or more), but the bar is wide open, well when it’s open at all. It was a Monday night and the place was packed, so I can’t imagine trying to fit your way in on a weekend, but once you do, jump on a couple seats, stay there, and order lots and lots of well-priced items on the menu.

Queso fundido


Start with the ultra-fresh chips and guac, and move onto the queso fundido. Served with perhaps a few too few mini flour tortillas, rich chihuahua cheese mixed with luscious chorizo tops spicy poblanos, all melding gooey-ly on the warm tortillas.

Taco tasting: al pastor


Next, move onto the tacos, they are both 3 bones and 3 bites, so mix and match, or just load up your lime wedge adorned plate with the thick and juicy pork belly, queso fresco and tomato quajillo or the al pastor—the obvious winner with smoky spit-roasted pork shoulder, sweet grilled pineapple and grilled onion. The braised lamb comes with cool slices of radishes and queso and is yet another tasty addition to the collection of juicy bites of meat. I didn’t indulge in the Violet Hour-esque drink menu, but a cold Great White Ale by Lost Coast Brewing brought everything together in perfect harmony. There are so many more things I have yet to try at Big Star, and with their new take-out window in operation, I’ll be back. Or you’ll find me lounging on the beer garden this summer, thinking not of old tire shops but of tacos. 1531 N. Damen Ave.

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Saint’s Alp Tea House

Almond milk tea with tapioca

My very first post on elizabites was about Saint’s Alp Tea House in Chinatown. It was a year and a half ago, middle of summer, but I still had a desire to hang out in the bright orange bubble tea shop and restaurant for hot almond milk or taro bubble tea drinks served in jumbo ceramic mugs. This ridiculously freezing weekend had me hiding out there again, to enjoy a steaming mug of almond milk tea, and this time, a few pretty-decent appetizers from the never-ending menu, like glistening grilled yakitori (chicken) on skewers, and crispy spring rolls with a chili sauce on the side. I also noticed they just started serving sizzling hot pot soups for a table to share—yet another way to warm up during the impending deep freeze. Other highlights: free wi-fi, spacious booths, late hours; Low-points: spotty service, popular spot for loud groups and younger crowds, and an ongoing need for a second location. Saint’s Alp Tea House, 2131 S. Archer.

Yakitori


Crispy spring rolls

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Best eats of ’09

Well, folks, another year has come and, well, is almost gone. And in true Chicago fashion, tonight’s wind chill is predicted to dip well below zero! If you’re heading out, bundle up, stay safe and try keep warm while you devise a way to revisit my top 10 favorite eats of 2009. Man, this was hard to do the say the least, especially since the last year had me traveling and eating my way through NYC, Baltimore, San Fran, San Diego, Milwaukee, Des Moines (of all places), Los Angeles and Chile. BUT, most of my favorite eats still ended up in the Chi. Here’s the top 10 in no particular order:

1). Three Little Pigs Sandwich, Silver Palm, Chicago —This was by far the best BST (Big Sandwich Tuesday), the crew experienced this year, our only regret? Not ordering a few for the table.

2). Steamed Pork Buns, Momofuku, NYC…overrated you say? BAH they changed my life, for reals.

3). Burata with Lovage, Roasted Fennel, English Pea Purée and Garlic Toast, Nightwood, Chicago — I went here over the summer and still dream about this appetizer, I know the menu is ever-changing there, but this one’s gotta stay, at least in the summer.

4). Chocolate Sabayon with Homemade Nutter Butters, Bristol, Chicago — Not sure what’s more unreal, the silky, perfectly light and rich chocolate sabayon served in the mini parfait glass, or the crunchy homemade nutter butters on the side that are worthy of being boxed up Girl Scout cookie-style and sold in bulk.

5). Corned Beef Sandwich, Jake’s Deli, Milwaukee— OK, it’s corned beef, but it was seriously the best corned beef sandwich I had ever had this year. Worth the drive to Milwaukee, at least for the local Miller’s Bakery rye bread and hand-sliced beef.

6). Crispy pata, Sunda, Chicago — When I saw this dish I wanted to grab the boiled and fried pork shank Fred Flintstone-style and gnaw it right off the bone, but the dainty and delicate watercress salad and garlic-foie gras gravy on the side are far too refined for such behavior, (geez). Anyway, the tender, juicy and somehow still crispy pork falls off the bone, so no need to get all caveman on this entrée I hope they keep on the menu.

7). Chick-fil-A, Racine, WI — Why does everyone talk about how good Chick-fil-A is but no one actually makes the trek out to Racine to eat the hand-breaded sandwich and awesome waffle fries? Or do they? Actually, when I made my way up there, there were fellow Chicagoans sitting right next to me in the food court mall who had done that very thing. It’s close to Mars Cheese Castle and Apple Holler, so you really have no excuse not to go. And who knows WHEN the supposed “Aurora” location is opening. Can’t they just ease up on the Jimmy Johns and open a Chick-fil-A in my neighborhood and be done with it?

8). Farmers Cheese Biscuits, Hot Chocolate, Chicago — A mini Staub filled with warm cheese biscuits and honey butter. At Hot Chocolate. Nuff said.

9). The Ron Bennington Cupcake, Molly’s Cupcakes, Chicago — The publishing of this post last spring got the blog a on-air mention by Sirius radio personality and comic Ron Bennington himself, and rightly so, because this cupcake rocks. Cupcakes are over, huh? Well the last time I checked, crushed butterscotch, chocolate cake, chocolate frosting, butterscotch chips and a peanut butter-butterscotch frosting center definitely ARE NOT (see pic).

10). Alinea, Chicago — Really, my top ten list could be made up of my entire meal here last spring, but I’m going to devote this slot to a tie between the black truffle ravioli and the chocolate course. Both amazing, visually stunning, and just a small part of the meal that blew me away the most this year.

Have a safe and happy new year and here’s to more deliciousness in 2010! Eat something out of control this year? Still reeling from it? Sound off in the comments!

The Ron Bennington cupcake at Molly's


Farmer's Cheese Biscuits at Hot Chocolate


Chick-fil-A

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Mystery sink

In what Chicago restaurant can you find this bathroom sink (my favorite in the city). Guess for a chance to guest blog.

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Mercadito mirrors and more

Mirrored walls at Mercadito

When it comes to restaurant banquette seating, I personally always want the seat against the wall. The padded, cushy side that faces out, a perspective for people-watching. But as a polite dinner guest, I usually offer the inside seat to my dining companion first, rather than just sit on down without a second thought. And for those times when I do end up sitting the equivalent of restaurant “bitch,” I love when restaurants, like Mercadito, install a subtle horizontal mirrored strip which allows the inside-facing diner to get in just a bit more on the action, while simultaneously adding a bit more energy and life all around. I love the way Mercadito infuses a long mirror with the colorful murals, and adds the kind of warm lighting that makes the spacious restaurant seem even bigger without appearing too cold. I noticed a mirrored panel on the wall at RL last week as well—yet another restaurant with a scene that’s not to be missed (as well as the awesome tomato bisque, lobster club and Key lime pie). And as for Mercadito, when you’re not gazing into the mirrored walls, reflect on and then scarf down their truly great selection of moles, ceviches and tacos (like the tilapia with tomatillo-garlic mojo) served until 2AM. Mercadito, 108 W. Kinzie, 312.329.9555

Tacos at Mercadito

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On the table: Quince

2 water glasses, 2 plates, 2 napkins, 1 votive. Quince, 1625 Hinman Ave., Evanston, 847.570.8400

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Non-mystery post

The view from the Signature Lounge on the 96th at the Hancock

I was really tempted to run this as a mystery post, but figured I’d go ahead and just admit that I was hanging at the Signature Lounge for a post-Andrew Bird show cocktail this week. We were in the neighborhood (Fourth Presbyterian Church) and decided to take the ear-popping elevator up to the 96th Floor of the Hancock for a drink. It was also freeze-ass cold outside, and didn’t want to go too far. Anyway, after living in Chicago for more than 10 years, I’m sorry, I still love this place. It was absolutely hopping on a Tuesday night, and we got the last two seats pulled up to the window. Of course it’s all about the view here (even an unexpectedly awesome one from the ladies’ restroom), and the over-priced cocktails. I did appreciate the idea of hot cocoa/coffee/tea drinks spiked with booze, and went for the Clementine Tea (description: Svedka Clementine vodka, cranberry juice, fresh brewed tea)…(reality: weak bag of Lipton black with a hardly a hint of vodka and maybe half a splash of cran, a random straw and overwhelming orange slices). I will pretty much only pay more than $10 for a cocktail if I’m the Violet Hour, but we made an exception only for the view I don’t think I could get tired of (see said awesome non-mystery post pic above). The Signature Lounge at the 96th, 875 N. Michigan Ave., 312.787.9796.

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Guest blog spot: Zingerman’s

I am so excited about this long-awaited guest blog, which is not only about Zingerman’s Roadhouse in Ann Arbor, but the Creamery, Bakehouse and Deli that are found in the popular foodie haven/mail order company. I, unfortunately have never been, but Ben Reid (founder of the recently launched foodieregistry.com, a free online gift registry for Chicago restaurant-obsessed newlyweds) guessed the Landmark mystery ceiling correctly back in Sept., and decided to bring us to all four locales. There are good gobs of goo (fried cheese curds), bacon farm bread, T-shirts and more to be read in his fun post below:

“Trips home to Ann Arbor are never complete without a visit to Zingerman’s, pound for pound the best deli in the world in my book and a place everyone should eat before they die. I wanted my post to stand out though, and while Zingerman’s is unknown to many Chicagoans, it does receive national plaudits and lacked the obscurity I was looking for. So when my family decided to take a break from Thanksgiving leftovers and head to Zingerman’s Roadhouse, the lesser known restaurant sibling to the original deli, I figured this was my answer. Turns out it was so much more…

We had a party of 6 on a Friday night and had to wait a few minutes in the bar for our table. The Zingerman’s family takes the sourcing of their products very seriously, and they were doing the local thing way before it was in vogue. And if it ain’t local, it’s the best damn thing you can get from far away. So I started with a locally produced Zaison, a Belgian beauty created the Roadhouse’s bar manager at a brewery up the road, and my wife Jennifer had a Boont Amber Ale from Anderson Valley Brewing in Boonville, Calif.

Local brews at the Roadhouse


On the Roadhouse menu one finds various all-American delights. The whole thing has a southern bent, with sections for BBQ, Mac & Cheese, Fish, and Burgers. My sister went to Wisconsin for college though, so for an appetizer we couldn’t resist going Midwest with the fried cheese curds. They ended up being the most ridiculously good gobs of goo you can imagine. These aren’t your typical breadcrumb-coated squeakers…more like what happens when a James Beard nominated chef (yes, they have one of those in Alex Young) takes over the recipe.

Fried cheese curds, worth a trip to Michigan alone


For entrées, we had the BBQ Pork Entrée with Eastern North Carolina Vinegar BBQ Sauce, Pit Smoked Beef Brisket, sautéed Georges Bank scallops, the Roadhouse Macaroni & Cheese, and a Bacon & Blue Burger with Nueske’s (of course) and Point Reyes Blue Cheese. They were all fantastic and masterfully demonstrated their own little highlights of American cooking.

Here’s where it gets interesting. We told our server that I was snapping pics for a blog post, to which she suggested if she were writing a blog about Zingerman’s she wouldn’t limit herself to just one establishment in the empire, which consists of the deli, the roadhouse, a creamery and a bakehouse. She would go on the “Tour de Food.” The Tour de Food, as it turns out, is a challenge to visit all four retail locations in the empire in one day in order to win something that stirs the soul of any red-blooded American — a T-shirt.

Eyes darted around our table in excitement. Suddenly this blog post had real purpose. We were going to do the Tour de Food and share its glories with the esteemed readers of Elizabites. And we were in a race against time. It was already 9:30PM, and we had one down. Our server signed our “TDF” passports and we raced to make it to the deli by closing time (10PM).

We burst through the doors of the famous deli around 9:45PM. At most mortal establishments 15 minutes before closing is a time that elicits stink-eye looks from the staff, but not at Zingerman’s. “Hi! Come on in, welcome to Zingerm – wait, aren’t you the Reids?” Not only was everyone there unreasonably delighted that we were extending their Friday night shift, but Dave, the bread guy remembered my Mom and sisters by name from a week earlier. Instead of asking “can I help with something” or “any questions”, he says “what do you guys want to try?” And thus began about 20 minutes of trying different kinds of bread—Parmesan pepper, Pain de Montagne, 8-grain 3-seed, Peppered Bacon Farm Bread (you read that right), Chocolate Cherry, and Pecan Raisin, to name a few. Dave, it seemed, was content to feed us samples all night and educate us on the various traditional baking methods employed at the Bakehouse, and for that we salute him. Here’s to you, Mr. Gives-us-free-bread-and-loves-the-science-of-baking-more-than-anyone-we’ve-ever-met-guy. Thanks Dave. I took a couple shots of the cheese and meat case on the way out to give any of the uninitiated a glimpse of how ridiiiiiculous this place is.

A case for meat and cheese


Bread-making at Zingerman's Bakery


Two down, two to go, and luckily they were right next door to each other. We were up and out the next morning to hit the Bakehouse and Creamery well within our 24-hour window for the Tour. As we’ve come to expect from Zingerman’s, at the Bakehouse they don’t just sell you bread, they invite you back into the Bakehouse to watch cool kids in bandannas knead the dough and work the ovens. We weren’t in the store five minutes and already we were sniffing fermenting sourdough and being lectured on the logistics of accommodating the varying baking times for around 20 different types of bread. We bought a challah and went next door to the creamery. Same deal – like cheese, will eat. We tried Little Dragon tarragon goat cheese, Great Lakes Cheshire, Montgomery Cheddar, and something they call a Lincoln Log. We turned in our stamped passports, collected our shirts, and went next door to the newly opened Zingerman’s Coffee Roasting Co. (these guys do it all) to savor the smell of success, and of coffee.

The long and short of it is Zingerman’s as a company is a food lover’s treasure, and the Tour de Food is their treasure hunt. You’ve never met people so passionate about food, and I don’t mean just the owners of the company but EVERYONE working there. And I don’t say that lightly living in Chicago, a city full of passionate foodies. If you’re near Ann Arbor, MI and are hungry, do yourself a favor and go to one of their fine establishments. If you’re near Ann Arbor however and are feeling hungry AND particularly ambitious, go on the Tour and tell ‘em Ben sent you. And enjoy your free T-shirt.” Zingerman’s, 422 Detroit Street, 734.663.DELI

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