Category Archives: great for date

On the table: Lockwood

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Get lost staring at the Palmer House lobby ceiling, and then settle into this cozy restaurant

4 plates, 4 napkins, 4 water glasses, 4 wine glasses, 4 forks, 8 knives, 1 candle. Palmer House Hilton, 17 E. Monroe St., 312.917.3404

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Alinea 3.0

By this time, we couldn’t tell if we were slightly buzzing from the 6th glass of wine, or the parade of food that had unfolded before us. We were a couple hours in, but the chairs were still cushy and comfortable, the waiters still buzzing like clockwork and all we could really do was look around and just smile at each other in collective contentment. The delicate tastes of sea-flavored roe, fish, floral foam had started to settle into our flavor memory banks, but we were ready for some meat, maybe a bold red, and the next course offered up both.

The Wagyu beef looks like a too-cruel mere bite of the intensely marbled meat, but it’s the perfect size. Its luscious flavor is intensified when dipped into an “A-1” powder of raisin, clove, anchovy and tamarind stuffed into a tiny plastic packet. The puréed potato cube encrusted with potato chip added the potatoes to the meat, a 2006 Sonoma Coast Syrah threw in the flavor of a bold, juicy, beef-friendly red, but it was the waves of smoldering dry ice reminiscent of a barbecue that brought the course to a new sensory level. Right on cue, a waiter came over to make the frosted over centerpiece “erupt,” emitting barbecue-inspired “smoke” that swirled around our sea of wine glasses and lapped up against ours plate before rolling over to the ground.

Wagyu beef

Wagyu beef


The smoke had cleared, the rest of the A-1 powder was gone when this simple spoon was set down in front of us with special direction to not bite down until the entire thing was in our mouths. The black truffle “explosion” was an intense burst of black truffle stuffed in a velvety smooth al dente ravioli. Our mouths were bursting with truffle broth, Parmesan and romaine, but the flavorful bite would have left us speechless anyway.
Black truffle

Black truffle


The intensity had been kicked up, but we were ready to start heading into the sweet, and the bacon course was the ideal way to do it. I’d had the dish before, and truly never forgot it. A single strip of bacon drizzled with butterscotch and laced with apple and thyme hangs on a silver wire. Sweet, savory, stare-worthy.
Bacon

Bacon


Oh my god, rhubarb. Could there be a better flavor? Tangy yet sweet and so conducive to pairing with other flavors. The rhubarb course, rhubarb, creamy cheesecake and a subtle onion cotton candy, is served on a pin-pricked pillow filled with lavender air that deflates and is emitted as the plate is set on it. You get a little lost with this one, not knowing quite what flavor or scent to take in first, but it’s another good bridge from the savory to the sweet.
Rhubarb

Rhubarb


Wherever I’m enjoying dessert, I want to make sure that chocolate occurs at some point. The chocolate course offered a lovely array of various “bubbles,” from fudge cream to a consommé of maple sap and blueberry. A subtle hint of tobacco hit our tongues at various points, but I’m still trying to figure out where and in what form it was hiding on the plate. A 1994 Smith-Woodhouse Vintage Port tied the heady, smoky, chocolate flavors together, a combination that might have represented the flavor of the color blue.
Chocolate

Chocolate


The final three flavors ended on a sweet and playful note, and each looked plucked from a candy store shelf circa 2060. We began with the raspberry transparency, a paper-thin shard of intense raspberry candy clipped onto metal wheels. It broke into crunchy sugary stained glass shards into our mouths invoking the essence of raspberry along the way.
Transparency

Transparency


Bubble gum. This long frozen plastic tube was placed in front of us with instruction to, “slurp it all out at once. There’s less in there then it looks.” We slurped and later found out that the frozen tube is filled with hibiscus, crème fraîche and tapioca flavored with bubble gum stock. Yes, actual stock, from bubble gum. Delish and fun (insert laughing fit).
Bubble gum

Bubble gum


Caramel. The final, solitary flavor of the night. The pile of brown caramel and salt powder turns into a creamy, lucious, buttery caramel when chewed. Perhaps the best caramel we’ve ever tasted, we swore the stuff should be packaged up and sold as chewing “dip.” Instead there would be no spitting, only savoring the flavor as long as we possibly could.
Dry caramel

Dry caramel


But wait, there was more! Click here from Alinea 1.0, and here for 2.0.

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Alinea 1.0

I think it was somewhere between sipping the most amazing Mosel Riesling I’ve ever had and noticing frosty white ice crystals begin to slowly envelop our black vase centerpiece that I started to wonder how the 12-course tasting at Alinea could truly be expressed on a blog. Not a review, post, iMovie (actually considered this one) or tweet can truly capture the full dining experience at Chef Grant Achatz’ award-winning temple of gastronomy. I was lucky enough to go last week and didn’t expect to be torn between taking photos of everything set down in front of me and sitting back and experiencing the sensory overload without the distraction of camera, pen and note pad fumbling. So, I did all of the above. I took notes, only to be reminded by one of our many patient servers that we’d be getting a copy of the menu at the end. My pen would go down just as yet another wildly creative dish was introduced, sometimes including how to eat it and in what order..Wait? Distilled vegetables? What? Wait..proceed to scribbling. A recorder might’ve captured it all, but we’re talking almost 5 hours of serious eating that would need to be transcribed. I later realized my cell phone has voice recording, but why ruin this amazing experience with too much technology? Also, why unveil the entire thing in one post?

So, I will attempt to bring you the first installment of our courses in order of consumption. We were seated a four-top round table on the second floor as the symphony of flavors, colors and textures rolled out..and our party marveled at everything, collectively dissected the nature of each juicy sphere of roe, savory foam bubble or something sweetly poised to be bitten from a burning cinnamon stick. We’d catch a hint of rosemary from another table, bonfire smoke from yet another as a pillow filled with lavender air was plopped down in front of us. At various points throughout the night, fists were pounded, mouths were stuck agape, hands were put on hearts, a laughing fit ensued towards the end, and one dining companion declared the restaurant “A place that makes problems disappear”…I bring you the first few courses of our night. More to come…

Roes. Two types of delicate, hand-harvested roe, airy toast foam and whipped egg cream. The light, fresh roe popped into slighly salty deliciousness onto our tongues while toast (yes, toast) foam played on our palates and egg cream added a lemon-kissed finish. Bowl-licking pondered but resisted.

Roes with traditional garnishes

Roes with traditional garnishes


We were handed these round bowls holding a holy fork-full of two silky foie gras lobes, shiso and daikon with a sweet yuzu foam beckoning below. The heavenly bite of foie paired perfectly with a silky smooth glass of Max Ferdinand von Richter Erdener Treppchen Riesling, 1990. It was sort of like sipping rare jewels in a glass and I could’ve stuck with it for the rest of the dinner if we didn’t have eight more glasses to try.
Foie gras

Foie gras


Pork belly with crisp iceberg lettuce, cucumber, Thai chile paste and Thai distillation. Stunning and well-balanced, the warm pork belly confit was hidden within layers of lettuce topped with dainty microgreens and mushrooms. In the corner, a mysterious shot glass contained mild, clean distillation of Thai chiles and lemongrass. Not at all hot, we detected just a hint of vegetable flavor in the palate-cleansing shot.
Pork belly

Pork belly


White asparagus with sorrel, white pepper and honey. Just as you are about to dip your spoon into this “glass”…
White asparagus

White asparagus


The server lifts it up and the picture perfect contents arrange themselves into pure spring loveliness in a bowl. Honey and what seemed like brown sugar granules rounded out the fresh and savory white asparagus, sorrel purée and white pepper soup. The dish was masterfully paired with a dangerously drinkable Junmai Daiginjo sake.
White asparagus (glass removed)

White asparagus (glass removed)


Next up… a palate cleanser, a bit of shellfish-kissed lilac, a butter-inspired plate and more to come..

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Roast chicken at Branch 27

Half-chicken at Branch 27

Half-chicken at Branch 27


I gushed last week about Branch 27‘s cool decor and sun-lit atrium, but I finally had a chance to head in for some actual eats this past weekend. I truly love so many different types of food, but sometimes I just can’t stay away from ordering a good roast chicken. The one at the very top of the Branch menu sounded especially tasty with mashed potatoes and Brussels sprouts (another strange weakness of mine) so I ordered it with a glass of crisp, white Hirschbach Riesling (and, yet another weakness). Perfectly tender and juicy, the glistening chicken is bursting with flavor from a simple lemon-garlic seasoning and rests in its own light jus. I try to avoid eating chicken skin if I can muster the willpower, but it might be sacrilege to leave its savory-salty-juicy self behind. The mashed potatoes on the side are simple, creamy and perfectly whipped, and the Brussels sprouts (the chef only uses the bright green outer leaves which are less bitter) are paired with mouth-watering pieces of juicy diced bacon. Anyway, I can go on and on, but let’s just say at the end of it all I got one of those, “So I guess you liked yours!!” exclamations from the waiter as he looked down at my plate holding little more than some clean chicken bones and a small pool of jus which I almost asked him to box up. Yeah, uh, so? Other highlights from the delish night include the decadent mozzarella egg roll appetizer and fudge brownie sundae for dessert. I’ll be back for lamb shank, sausage and peppers, and an especially tasty looking bowl of mussels I saw people downing at the bar. Branch 27, 1371 W. Chicago

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The atrium at Branch 27

img_1557I heard about the “atrium” at the back of Branch 27 when it was still a construction site, but couldn’t really picture what co-owner Cary Michael was describing. After finally making my way over to the new West Town restaurant, which recently opened in a former public library, I got a clear view of the tables before the nightly dinner crowd descends. Even though spring is taking its sweet time to grace us with its presence, this part of the restaurant makes me think of summer. I worship the chairs, the mix of wood, brick, metal and glass, and the lush green ivy hanging above. You can tell it’s probably the coveted seating area of the place, but the rest of Branch is a similar mix of comforting materials and gorgeous votive-lit wooden tables (with a few white marble ones thrown in for good measure). As for the eats, a colleague was raving about the roast chicken with Brussels sprouts, sausage and peppers, and mozzarella sticks the size of egg rolls, making me even more excited to try and score a seat there this weekend, Atrium or not. Full review to come. 1371 W. Chicago Ave., 312.850.2700

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Crispy pata at Sunda

img_1513The crispy pata pork shank at Sunda may look like it was plated by a caveman, but chef Rodelio Aglibot’s entrée is nothing but refined. I already reviewed Sunda, but didn’t try this Filipino-inspired dish until my third visit to the River North restaurant last week, and thought it was worth its own post. You may not know where to begin with the Fred Flinstone-affixed shank, but go ahead and knock it over (watch out for the watercress salad) and start digging in. It’s actually a confit pork shank that’s boiled then fried so the outer layer is crispy and flavorful while the pork is tender and falls right off the bone (or can be gnawed off neanderthal style if you so desire). Once it does, send it into the ramekin of garlic-foie gras fat gravy off to the side and devour. 110 W. Illinois, 312.644.0500

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On the table: Tocco

img_130012 place mats, 2 plates, 2 glasses, 2 napkin rolls, 1266 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773.687.8895

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Black sesame flan at Kaze

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We saw black sesame flan on the dessert menu of Kaze in Roscoe Village and had to have it. Not only because the description included slightly sweetened basil seed extract, fresh cherries and sugar candy, but because we knew that the crazier any dessert sounds at Kaze, the better it probably is. I already gushed over my obsession with their asparagus pudding last summer, and must now express my newfound infatuation with black sesame flan. From the color you expect almost a green tea mousse, but the black sesame imparts a nutty flavor that strangely reminded me of a Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup. The sweet basil seed extract may look like ants making a beeline for a picnic but it’s addictive and serves as almost a sweet syrupy dipping sauce for the flan. Spun sugar garnishes are pretty, but let’s face it, meant to be broken into delicate crunchy candy bits that add even more texture and sweetness to the dessert. But keep in mind that at Kaze, the best isn’t only saved for last, they also have killer sushi, seafood entrées and sweet potato soup to start. Kaze Sushi 2032 W. Roscoe, 773.327.4860

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