So, well, besides gorging on tapas and dessert, we drank some rather nice things too. I pretty much lived on the house reds, but also discovered some pretty amazing local beers, and during the day, overdosed on the coffee. From the cafe con leche to the tiny cortado (espresso with a bit of milk) the little foamy drinks were wee, but still packed a bitter caffeine punch. And the beer discoveries ranged from crisp light brews like the sunny (and historic) Moritz to dark double malts like Voll-Damm (please click on this site just to hear the beer being poured into the glass).
Category Archives: eliz-a-trip
Barcelona beverages
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Taller de Tapas
The equivalent of a bread basket start in Barcelona seems to be tomato bread. Often around 2 euros, we made it a habit of starting our meal with the ultra-crunchy, rustic (sometimes day-old) country bread slathered with ripe tomato, olive oil and sometimes sea salt. The best we had was at Taller de Tapas, a bustling restaurant in the Gothic quarter that was known for their English menu, great tapas, and profiteroles..
From there this eggplant dish with roasted red peppers and olive oil soaked sardines was almost to pretty to eat..
Next came farmhouse sausage with beans, one of my favorite dishes of the week. The juicy, perfectly cooked sausage and tender beans with chopped parsley was hearty, rustic and perfect.
The fried calamari was next, our first fried fish dish of the trip, but certainly not the last. It wasn’t the best we had, but was still a lightly fried, and not-too-oily mix of fresh fish.
There was also seafood paella and profiteroles, both of which must’ve been gobbled up before I could snap a photo..
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El Xampanyet cava and tapas…
All I had to know about this little cava bar in the middle of the Born neighborhood was that it’s been owned by the same family since the 1930s, and that the house bite was a plate of Cantabrian anchovies. We also hadn’t delved into nearly enough cava, so we paid a visit to the small restaurant stocked with royal blue and white tiles, barrels, photos, bottles and antiques.
Like most tapas bars, people stood and grazed at the bar, but an expertly timed arrival of 5:30PM (right when they raised the garage door) got us a seat at small cafe table..not that the bar didn’t look happening as hell..and by happening I mean stacked with delicious goodies..
We ordered up some cava in awesome glasses that reminded me of a New Year’s Eve toast glass, except the bubbly was delicious (although low-grade, says the guide book), and the stem didn’t break off from the bottom mid-clink. Oh, and two salty, meaty, deliciously olive oil-soaked anchovies rested nearby..
From there we had paprika sprinkled artichokes.
Jamon (of course) stacked on crispy bread.
I don’t remember exactly what this was, a croquette of sorts with cheese, I think, but it was amazing.. If you ever go, you’ll see them skewered on a plate..point and nod.
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Vioko..chocolate, gelato, marshmallows and more
Part art gallery, part gelateria and part modernist candy shop, we literally stumbled upon Vioko after dinner on Barceloneta. I instantly fell in love with the deer logo, then the packaging used for the chocolate truffles, mini muffins, and brownies all made in the on-site bakery. They also had flavored sugars that resembled Technicolor bath salts, white and dark swirled chocolate sheets, and well, the coolest marshmallows I had ever seen in flavors like vanilla, lime and strawberry (read, killer gifts).
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Quimet y Quimet
From the Boqueria there were tapas to be tasted, and tapas bars are plentiful throughout Barcelona. But oy, and I mean OY, did we have a fantastic experience at Quimet y Quimet, a postage stamp-sized tapas and cheese restaurant in the Montjuïc neighborhood. I knew they were famous for their canned seafood (a delicacy in Spain), and for being impossible to get into. I learned quickly that the tapas bars with waits, lines and general shit-showy-ness at the entrance, or spilling out onto the sidewalk meant the place was a winner. We hit the tiny tapas bar at the perfect time because we were able to barely belly up to the packed bar (no seats), and just started pointing at the fresh, dried, canned seafood, salt cod, anchovies, sardines, paté, jamon and endless other delicacies nestled under the glass and between the hungry patrons and two lone servers who were the mad tapas scientists behind the wonderful concoctions of seafood, pickled vegetables, vinegars, honeys and caviar layered atop crisp, toasted bread.
And the eating parade began, starting with one of the highlights of the week…a insane combination of salmon, whipped cream cheese, honey and balsamic vinegar on bread.
The open-faced deliciousness continued…each more colorful than the next…
And when we weren’t staring at the creations coming from behind the bar, we were looking at the floor-to-ceiling explosion of bottles, signs, photos and more..
And when we were done we gave up our coveted elbow space at the bar and already missed Quimet as we shuffled our way through the ornery line and onto our dessert destination (well, sort of…)
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And Spain week begins…the Boqueria market
If the dorky u-shaped neck pillow I finally broke down and bought in the airport (I get it now!) didn’t help make the journey to Barcelona fly by, thoughts of the delicacies that awaited us sure did. But the truth is, I had a pretty good idea of what to expect for my first trip to Spain (jamon Iberico falling from the sky, amazing fresh and canned seafood, delicious red wine, chorizo, Manchego, sherry, cava..the list goes on), but truly didn’t understand the culinary feast we were in for. It’s hard to know exactly where to start, or how to break down our eating adventures which truly tested even my four-stomach limitations, so I’ll begin at the famous Boqueria food market. The market had been a must-see suggestion not only from all of our guide books, but anyone who’d ever been to Barcelona, including friends who professed tears of joy upon walking through the mouth-watering kiosks literally spilling over with colors, flavors, delicacies, to chef friends who offered up suggestions for the best tapas counters inside. Located just off the touristy La Rambla, the market was just as colorful, decadent, delicious and overwhelming as everyone had promised. The photos speak for themselves, but the vendors sold everything from salt cod fritters to fresh eggs. We went back several times, and did some tapas hopping around the cava-soaked counters (post to come), but here are a few pics of our visit on our first jet-lagged day. We were bleary-eyed..but still able to ogle.
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Elizatrip: Barcelona-bound
Elizabites will be back in about a week with more Chi-town finds, as well as a tapas-filled tales of my impending Barcelona adventures!
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Cinnamon toast (not crunch) at Comet Cafe
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