Zeitgeist-San Francisco

The of Zeitgeist, in San Francisco

If you are from Chicago, picture dive bars like Cal’s and Kuma’s coming together with the biker motif of Twisted Spoke, and room for a sprawling beer garden in back and you have the Mission’s Zeitgeist. At least that was my impression after an hour visit. An insider-y friend exposed the awesome bar to me during my last visit to San Francisco, and I was intially obsessed with the place based on the door logo alone (the rest of the joint FAR too dark for a decent photo). But inside the loud, raucous bar adorned with port-o-potties and a tamale lady (much like our very own tamale guy), I discovered a new favorite beer! I craved something wheaty and citrusy and was given Great White Beer from Lost Coast brewery in Eureka, Calif. The brew managed to be both malty and citrus-y, but also had a crisp mouthfeel and smooth drinkability. It reminded me of other favorites, Hitachino White Ale, Blue Moon and Hoegaarden, but fresher, and of course, rocked an awesome label. Zeitgeist, 199 Valencia, San Francisco

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Mystery fixtures

These light fixtures hang in what Chicago restaurant?

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More Momofuku

Momofuku steamed pork buns

I mean, really. Did you think I would just casually drop Momofuku Ssäm in a previous post and not proceed to put up more mouth-watering shots from the meal? Out of three days in NYC, I managed to hit up 3 of the 4 Momo eating empires, including Ssäm and Noodle Bar (I’ll save Ko for another time if I’m lucky). We actually ended up at Ssäm first, thinking it was Noodle Bar, “a common mistake,” our server told us as we squeezed our way up to the packed communal dining table. Common, yet delicious as we proceeded to start with the heavenly creation that is the steamed pork buns. The soft spongy buns serve as the perfect grip for a generous, juicy chunk of pork belly, slather of tangy hoisin sauce, squirt of fiery hot sauce, crispy cucumbers and scallions. It’s chef David Chang’s signature dish, and so totally amazing, I knew I had a new craving on my hands; one that would continue to hit me throughout the impending Chicago winter. But we still had to focus at Ssäm, as there was melt-in-your-mouth cured hamachi with horseradish and edamame purée to try (divine), sides like fried brussels sprouts with fish sauce vinaigrette, mint and crispy puffed rice, and grilled branzini, a flavorful firm white fish entrée served with delicious smoked eel, zucchini and a marjoram pistou.

Hamachi appetizer


Grilled branzini


Fried brussels sprouts


For dessert (yes, we had dessert even after our appetizer of Milk Bar cookies), the Thai Iced Parfait was too intriguing to pass up. Of course, it was totally unexpected; a quenelle of perfectly tart lemon mascarpone nestled up to Thai iced tea custard in a long, rectangular shape. A pile of crunchy granules of almond tea held them together on the plate. Pretty. Delicious. Gone in 60 seconds.

Thai Iced Tea parfait


You’d think after all this, I woulda had enough Momo, but I’m not sure that’s entirely possible. I had a two-hour window my last night, and made a bee line to Momofuku Noodle bar to grab a relatively fast seat at the communal dining table. The place was packed, the servers worked the place like masters, and just like Ssäm and Milk Bar, a crowd of hungry diners huddled outside. Everything on the menu looked ridiculous (chilled spicy noodles with Szechuan spiced sausage, smoked chicken wings with pickled chile, sliced fluke with apple purée), but I knew I had to have a repeat performance of the famous pork buns, and without a doubt, a steaming, heaping, soul-soothing bowl of the Momofuku Ramen I heard so much about. I definitely may have dorkily clapped a few times when the massive bowl of pork belly, pork shoulder, bamboo shoots, scallions and a poached egg appeared. I’ve made the claim before that everything is better with the addition of an egg (or avocado), and when it’s broken up inside the hot, salty, pork bone-bacon-shiitake mushroom-flavorful broth and swirled amid slices of daikon, clusters of green onion and soft, silky ramen noodles that defy all memories of dry crunchy blocks of wavy noodles that broke into chunks as they were carelessly stacked around my college dorm room, this statement rings more than true. Wait, let me take that back. Everything is better with pork belly, and pork shoulder, their meaty, juicy, tenderness soaks throughout the broth, and you don’t know whether to slurp them down, or let them spread their flavorful love around the bowl. So you take a nibble, stir, gather a few slurps from the over-sized soup spoon, a few luscious grasps of noodles with your chopsticks and repeat, hopefully, every time you’re back in New York. Momofuku Noodle Bar 171 First, Avenue, Momofuku Ssäm Bar, 207 2nd Ave.

Momofuku Ramen

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Mystery view

We interrupt these eliz-a-trip reports for a Chi-town mystery post. This view is from the second floor of what local restaurant? Guess for a chance to guest blog.

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Momofuku Milk Bar

Crack pie at Momofuku Milk Bar

See, waiting for your table isn’t always a royal painski when things like crack pie, compost cookies, blueberry cream cookies, chocolate chip cake, candy bar pie (caramel, peanut butter nougat, peanut brittle, toasted pretzels and chocolate crust) are staring you in the face. This happens at pastry chef Christina Tosi’s sleek and modern Momofuku Milk Bar in NYC if you are waiting for your table at the adjacent Momofuku Ssäm, or if you head in for dessert after 8PM. Sure, steamed pork buns, branzini and hamachi await, but let them as you reach for a chocolate chip, marshmallow and cornflake cookie fresh from the oven. They actually offer a few daily changing savory items like a very intriguing sounding chorizo challah, the “volcano” (a potato dish encased in bread) banana green curry bread, but you’ll most likely reach for something that goes with the cereal milk soft serve. Momofuku Milk Bar, 207 2nd Ave., NYC

Chocolate chip cake


Compost cookie


Candy bar pie

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Fork-getaboutit

New York silverware skyscrapers

Well, more work travel has caused a bit of a lag on my blogging duties, but never fear, there are more reports from my recent eating adventures in NYC and San Fran to come. I had been meaning to share this window display I spotted in Tribeca at Fish’s Eddy in Union Square/Flatiron (thanks Helen R!)..iconic NYC skyscrapers made entirely of silverware. More cheesy titles welcome in the comments. Fish’s Eddy, 889 Broadway, NYC

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Betty Bakery, Brooklyn

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Buildings reflected in Betty sign

We stumbled upon Betty Bakery in Brooklyn, immediately lured in by the most stunning wedding and b-day cakes I had ever seen. I generically went for a chocolate cupcake for some reason, and while it definitely wasn’t the best I’d ever had, I couldn’t get over the marzipan owls, turkeys and pumpkins, a very cool vintage oven from the ’30s, and the other cakes on display. 448 Atlantic Avenue
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I am sucker for cute and edible figurines.


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Way too pretty to cut.

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Num Pang, Abraço and more…

Just when you thought I was settled back in the Chi, the eliz-a-tripping continues. This was actually my first visit to NYC since starting the blog a year and half ago, so there was plenty of highly anticipated “research” to be done. My laundry lists of places to visit (from fine dining to street-food eats), was long, and 48 hours does not a proper eating-tour of NYC make, but I did my best, getting my fill of Momofuku, Abraço coffee and more..foodie photo essay part 1…

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Duroc pork sandwich with blood orange lemonade

Get off plane and head straight to Num Pang, Chef Ratha Chau’s semi-new Cambodian sandwich shop in Greenwich Village near NYU. I spoke with Ratha (also of Kampuchea) while working on the Southeast Asian issue of Plate, and knew I had to check his new place out the next time I was in NYC. It’s tiny. You order outside at the window and then squeeze yourself on low benches in a wee upstairs room to munch on peppercorn catfish with sweet soy sauce or delicious pulled Doruc pork with spiced honey on fresh-baked bread from local Italian bakery Parisi. Juices drip, the pork melts in your mouth, the long slices of cucumber, tangle of pickled carrots, cilantro and spicy chili mayo add crunch, tang, spice and heat all at the same time, and the soft baguette keeps it all together. You may be with a friend, but won’t open your mouth to say much, well maybe for sips of blood orange lemonade. 21 E. 12th Street.
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Abraço


Abraço for coffee. This place was a bit of a hike on a rather chilly afternoon, but I’ll schlep pretty damn far for a great cup of coffee. I fell in love with Abraço’s Web site first, and then with the robust, smooth, creamy latte I waited almost 10 minutes for. Half the size of Num Pang (Chicagoans are SO spoiled by square-footage), Abraça’s hip crowd was literally spilling out of its tiny front area while a single barista carefully crafted each espresso, latte and macchiato. I honestly don’t know the secret, but this was hands down the best latte I had ever had, complete with the espresso leaf design in the foam and the classic NYC coffee cups. The only thing that would’ve made it better was a ricotta pain perdu on the side, but alas, they were out for the day. Abraço, 86 E. 7th Street.
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Latte from Abraço


And a few more foodie shots along the way..
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McSorley's Old Ale House, post Yankee win

Ah McSorley’s. Most people know about the iconic bar where the beer flows dark or light and sawdust covers the floor. On Yankee-parade day, a rather boisterous, baseball-jersey clad line awaited outside. 15 E. 7th Street.
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Rather pretty sushi signs..


There seems to be a sushi restaurant on every corner in NYC, but the presentation of these menus particularly stood out. Each looked like a hand-written work of art, and of course made me crave maki and miso. More to come!

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